12/11 Chacchoben Mayan Ruins in Costa Maya

Today was our first day off the ship so we met in the Windjammer for an early breakfast, then went to the Orpheus theater to await our turn to leave. We were headed out to see some Mayan ruins and we had to sign a waiver; I didn't really read it but fortunately that didn't matter - the jist of it was don't be a destructive jerk, and I don't need a document to know that.

Coming ashore we looked across the water to see a picturesque town. So picturesque that I know it was built to please the tourists. They did a great job - it does look charming!
And then, just like that, the touristic section was over. Welcome to the real town. 
Although they do have a very clean and tidy gift shop.
Our guide was Vladimir and our driver was Sergio. Sergio didn't have much to say but Vladimir made up for that. He started out by saying the Yucatan peninsula has no mountains. It has a flat limestone layer and underground rivers which creates sinkholes (aka Cenotes, which is a Yucatec Mayan word that has survived to our time). He said the peninsula is where the meteor that killed the dinosaurs landed. 

The path to the ruins was smooth and walkable, even with the young trees growing randomly in the middle.
Just off the path was an absolute jungle.  I like it that way, and nobody was tempted to go off path. 
That encompassing jungle works wonderfully to hide the ruins from sight until the last minute for maximum impact!
I think he said this one was an observatory. 
A local joke is that the pyramids are only still here because they were too heavy to steal. Probably true. And when someone asks where the Mayans disappeared too, the answer is that they are still here, too - they are these local people. Also, the Mayan calendar included Leap Year!

About this time I got very distracted by the amazing trees. Vladimir said that much of this land had been cleared to access the pyramids and the forest near it was replanted as late as 1995! But not all the pyramids have been excavated and surely some of the trees nearby are older - they are so interesting!

As we walked to another pyramid, Vladimir mentioned that many ruins have not been excavated yet. All along our walk the trees and rubble hid or camouflaged pyramids or walls.
To our surprise (and joy) there were several pyramids. We'd walk on a path cleared through a bit of jungle, and there would be another beautiful pyramid. I like my ruins to look their age and not be too spruced up, so I thought these were perfect.
We'd climb the steps and peer into openings, wondering what they were really used for. Probably nothing good. 
Vladimir had more information for us, such as the fact that the Mayan calendar included leap year. And he passed around some local spice leaves that smells like cloves, although if you bite it, it will numb you a bit, like a mild pepper.  

And one of these pyramids was where women and children were sometimes sacrificed for rain. 

And local trees produced the stuff used in the original Chiclets. The trees release a latex-like substance when their bark is damaged and locals would use it to clean their teeth. Somehow businessmen decided to use it for Chiclets. So the trees would be hacked with a machete to make the sap flow into containers at the base of the tree.  Vladimir also mentioned that the machete guys would pee on the sap to speed the sap flow - that fact didn't make it into the brochures.
Nearby was a special stone that Vladimir said was used to offer alcohol, fruit to the dead. It points east and west to help dead out of this world and into underworld.
He kept sharing information with our group but I didn't hear because I was dawdling behind to admire the trees. 
Vladimir had hired Luis, a local guy, to help keep us together, like a sheepdog hearding up the strays. That was me. I was always behind everyone else because I was loving those trees! He never hurried me; eventually he understood I was strangely interested in unusual trees and starting pointing out the interesting ones!
I missed the entire conversation about this interesting stone with writing on it. Too bad, I would have enjoyed that.
More ancient pyramids! This one might be the temple of the sun.
I lost track of what their names are. Just admiring them.
Luis was so nice. Besides making sure I didn't get lost, he took photos for us.
Selfie!
At the last pyramid people were looking up so we did too. And there were several small monkeys playing around in the branches. They were too fast to photograph clearly so we just enjoyed watching them. 
Then it was time to get back on the bus and head to the ship. Vladimir talked the whole ride but I didn't hear anything except that Yucatan either means I understand you or I cannot understand you (not really helpful). We drove through the town again. 
We were dropped off at that touristic shopping area near the dock. 
One thing I would have done if I felt we had the time was the "fish pedicure". You put your feet into big fishbowls full of tiny fish who will nibble on your toes. 
We stopped for a photo op, then headed back to the ship. 

The first thing to do was take a nap! Then the group went to play Trivia but I kept napping. I got up in time for dinner, though and I'm glad I did - my spaghetti was excellent and our wine tonight tasted like Christmas in a glass!

The group went to see the late show while I headed right back to bed. Maybe I'll catch up on my sleep on this trip.


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