Every evening Brendan would write out our itinerary for the next day and post it in the hotel lobby. Last night he added a note to wrap up well and wear flat shoes.
He drove us to catch a ferry to the Aaron Islands. Along the way he hold stories of driving for other bus companies, like the one who gave him such a ratty bus that he had to put half a dozen eggs in the radiator to fix a leak.
He told us that if a famine house had any windows at all, they would be small because the British taxed glass windows by the size.
He told us about what he called "Irish college" which is of 3 weeks total immersion class for high-schoolers. They study Irish language, history and culture. They are allowed only 2 calls a day to their family, and no English can be spoken. It seems like a pretty good idea to me.
He also mentioned the theory that St Brendan was actually the first European to visit America. St. Brendan is famous for his journey to the Isle of the Blessed. It's been assumed to be an allegorical text but now some folks wonder if it's a record of a voyage to America. Who knows?
We stopped at a roadside for a moment to admire an attractive thatched building. A lovely sign on the wall caught my eye - so pretty. Brendan translated it as the owner's name and her authorization to sell liquor. Some things are better off not translated!
All around us were small rocked fields. Brendan said these were created to move small groups of livestock around for short-term grazing. That and clearing the ground, of course. Man, that's a lot of work!
Randy mentioned that he hadn't seen any frame houses yet. Brendan agreed - this area needs more solid construction. He also said that what we call stucco finish is called nap finish here (and there's a lot of it).
And Brendan doesn’t like to see wind turbines on his historic hills. He says it spoils the view. Can't argue with that.
This time the bus didn't go on the ferry, just the passengers. We mostly sat near the front which was a mistake, at least for me. The crossing was really, really rough. A couple of the crew members were watching for people who were struggling and one asked me if I wanted to go to the back. I said no, then realized I should go. The ferry was pitching so hard that I could barely walk but I made it and sat near the back and in the center. It was a little bit more stable there but the ferry still rocked so far to the left and right that the water horizon (not the water level) would reach the top of the window on one side, then the other. I didn't care for that trip at all. The lady sitting next to me assured me that this was nothing. In that case I never want to be here when it's bad!
We made it save and sound to Inishnmore (aka Inis Mor), the largest of the 3 Aran islands, where Brenden turned us over to a local guide. He was cheerful and knowledgeable but he had a different accent, talked fast and drove faster. So by the time I understood him, we were past whatever he was talking about!
For example, I think he said that these roadside monuments were set up when someone left the Island. I later discovered they are memorials for the dead of certain families. Well, I guess they technically left the island.
I did hear him say that about 35% of the land here is man-made. The people would clear an area of loose rocks and dump a combination of sand and seaweed on the bedrock.
The land here, like most of the island, is amazing rock. I guess if you lived here it might not be amazing but I thought it was fascinating stuff - strangely split. How does it get those curved slots?
The signs were full of warnings about ways to get hurt... mostly by rocks.
But as we got through most of the fields, we turned around and saw the beautiful coastline. There is always a mist over this area from the sea crashing into the layered rock.
Onward, more walking to do, but we are getting closer.
Some of the grass here is weirdly twisted up to look like grassy waves.
We stepped through and into the empty center. At this point it's easy to see that there are several layers to the stones. A docent told us that the middle layer is the oldest. Later another, taller wall was added to the outside and a shorter, thicker wall was added to the inside. That would make it very strong.
There is an area in the wall which looks like a tiny room. The docent said this appears to be for storage of foodstuffs.
Inside the half-ring of stones it is very flat, except for one section. The docent said this was where a lot of stone was removed from.
Over to the right we could look along the cliff wall. Without a handrail or barrier, I didn't want to get too close to the edge but I could get a great look from where I was.
Wonder what it would have looked like, filled with the people of the time?
Ah, well, we had to leave. The stone staircase is tricky - it's more of a path than stairs, and slippery with the damp.
As we walked back down, Randy found a large stone with a hole in it. I am pretty sure this was a sundial.
More of those amazing, strange rocks.
And some pretty strange vegetation, too. Why does this grow in balls?
When we got back to the tourist office I saw an aerial photo of the place. Simply amazing. It's well protected on most sides but that back is a straight shot down!
On the way back to town, our guide pointed out a kind of boat the locals used to make. This was mostly canvas covered with tar and would have held 12 people.
At one point he said us we were passing a special field that had set aside for unbaptized babies (it's called a cillín). But by the time I figured out what he said, we'd moved right along. I did see the ruined Anglican Church ruin he pointed out.
We were scheduled to have lunch in a large pub in the town of Kilronan. The Seafood salad tasted like tuna but it was very good. Then Randy had baked Pollack as his entree and I had cottage pie.
We had some time to explore the village of Kilronan. There is a large Celtic High Cross which in 1893 was dedicated to Rev. Michale O'Donnoghue, the "beloved priest and benefactor of Aran".
The ferry ride back to the mainland was much easier and it seemed a lot faster, too. It was still raining so we all huddled under the bus stop cover while Brendan went for the bus.
And there was no potato blight here during the famine years. The potato blight didn't cross the water.
When we got to our destination everyone got out and went through the small tourist office, heading out to see Dún Aonghasa. This is a bronze/Iron Age structure that originally was assumed to be a fort. Nowadays they think perhaps it was more of a showplace/palace. Whatever it was, Brendan was right - we needed good walking shoes.
And it's just everywhere. Many of the walls are less dry-stack and more piled up. When you have this many rocks, you have to put them somewhere.
Almost at the top now. There is only one entrance into the fort.
Backed up to the wall is a barely visible ring of stones in the ground with one larger stone. This would have marked a house, and the larger stone would be a place for fire.
This is a rough land but how beautiful.
To our surprise, there were seals in the bay! The driver pulled over and we quietly got out to admire them.
It was cold and rainy and we didn't feel like walking around a lot. We visited a couple of beautiful sweater stores before taking refuge inn the Kilronan Hostel's upstairs pub. The obligatory fireplace was warm and welcoming and most of our group got something to drink. We were sitting around drinking when Glenda said "I've got a deck of cards." Great! She taught us how to play Kings in the Corner on a small bar table that was set on a Singer sewing machine stand. We played 5 with people and Randy won with one hand, no draws! The rest of us all won at least one game except Glenda. Guess she taught us too well!
Back at the hotel Randy got a BLT while I enjoyed chicken and cranberry sandwich.
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