2022 06 08 Wednesday part 1

Who is guarding the American Embassy? They don't speak English and they don't look Italian. They are all heavily tanned and have big bushy beards. At any rate, we were not allowed to talk to anybody at the Embassy, we were turned away at the gate by the guards. 

We went out to the Republic Square, stopping at McDonald's for a bathroom and something familiar. Had to figure out how to get the pay stub to open up the bathroom but eventually we did.

Randy wanted to visit the train station where we arrived in 1999; our hotel back then was very close to the station. We found the station but of course the area has completely changed. The station is much, much larger and the surrounding area is mostly restaurants with graffiti on the walls and trash on the ground.

Randy found the way to the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria. I'd mentioned a few days ago that I'd like to see that; how nice of him to remember! Inside is a lovely sculpture called the Ecstasy of Saint Teresa. When this was created it caused a stir because the "ecstasy" seemed a bit more physical than spiritual.

But what made my day was that one of the "incorruptible bodies" is here - Saint Victoria! 

Sometimes martyrs are dug up for some reason and found to be less decayed than expected. Depending on the scenario, they may be designated "incorruptible". St. Victoria is one of those and it's pretty certain that she actually is in this glass coffin. But she is also encased in a lovely wax figurine, with a discreet wound on her neck and clothes, hair, and roses borrowed from who knows where. 

But she's still in there. The teeth are hers. 

And in the hand turned outwards, her bones are clearly visible. 

I find this stuff fascinating! 

When we got back to the hotel, the manager said they could not fix the a/c in the room we had so we could change to another room. Our new room did have a better air conditioner - not great and we were never going to be chilly, but it was better. So we changed rooms, took a nap, and watched Major Crimes. By 3pm we were ready for a late lunch, but discovered that everything within reasonable walking distance closes by 2. So we went back to hotel for some of Glenda's tuna with Coop's cheese spread on bread and chips. 

We watched some more Little House on the Prairie episodes until time for dinner. Some of the restaurants convert the parking spaces outside of their place into covered tables. This works quite well and is usually a sign of a good restaurant. 

We walked on until we found La Bottega Ristorante, and sat under their umbrellas. Their "Insalata con Mela verde, Noci e Caciottina Primo Sale" (Salad with green apples, walnuts, and Caciottina cheese) was excellent. 

Next: "Proscuitto de Parma e Melone" (prosciutto ham and melon) which was extraordinary. The melon was as juicy as watermelon. 

And the "Rigatoni di Gragnano all Gricia" (pasta, pork cheek, pepper, and pecorino cheese) was great (although it could have used just a touch of lemon). Lovely, lovely meal!